Phajoding-a majestic pilgrimage site and trek path.

Adventure has always been enticing to the journey of my life. From the buzzing crowd of Thimphu to the peaceful land and sanctuary of Phajoding, located 5 KM away from road terminal in Thimphu, in the autumn fall, we mounted towards exploring adventure. We had our backpacks, utensils and basic amenities carried of our own. The chill autumn fall and rising winter was embraced with much joy to our heart. 

Camp site at Phajoding

At around 1100 hrs, we gathered as agreed at the road terminal at Sangaygan (where BBS Tower is located). Ladies were so lightly weighed down with just cotton-like clothes carried. Boys died at the mercy of loads, sweating, panting and almost fainting as we mounted up the steep slope, with direct sun rays from the west in the early afternoon. Before reaching Chhokhortse, a temple located just above the hill of Sangaygang, slope that we walked is like climbing a rock as we were weighed down.

After a while passing through the trails in the blue pine woods, we have taken a rest. In a while, as we resumed on our trek, I lost a gap managed with the person in lead. Mountain sickness was entailing deep into our breath, legs getting numb and eyes gone bleary. However, there is nothing that can discourage us from moving forward in making on top of the mountain.

Trekkers at rest in the deep woods

Later in the evening, as the sun drops down the ranges above, we made to the first sight of Phajoding where a small stupa is located. Sighing in relief that we crossed a hurdle, hasten our pace then.

At the 1600hrs or late we made to the final destination camp. We were offered tea and biscuits that tastes I can still remember. The kind souls of monks enraptured the tiresome trekkers in horde.  Monks there helped us with cooking utensils which were much remembered even we had ours, sets ready for the dinner.

Welcome gate to Phajoding

A warm day has gone and twilight passed down to a moon, a responsibility of illumination. We had divided into different tasks groups, assigned few to collect firewood to make fire in order to combat chills of high peak mountains. Others, pitched tents, and made necessary arrangement to prepare a dinner.

Night at Phajoding, far away from human cries and resounding eerie of cacophony in late nights were cherished almost to dawn. Chirping of birds while inhaling the aromatic scents from the nature, we had our sleeps fully engulfed in a high-made cotton sleeping bag.

Stunning view of Capital City-Thimphu, Bhutan

A sun rise in Phajoding was so amazing when accompanied with a camera in hand to capture the lower valleys in early mist that makes a perfect combination for photography. I had many though I am not well trained in photography. As a beginner in this, not taking up as a profession, induced by passion, I made several shots.

Only means of transport on mountains

Phajoding is a blessed pilgrimage site and most lovable trekking path. The name Phajoding derives from a saint Phajo Drukgom Zhipo, who travelled from Tibet to Bhutan in thirteenth century. Most of the buildings at Phajoding however were constructed in 1748 by Gyelwa Shakya Rinchen (1710-1759), the 9^th Je Khenpo (rje mkhan po) who is considered to be the reincarnation of Rechungpa, the heart disciple of Milarepa. (Phojoding Monastry Project)

First building at sight at Phajoding

To narrate something on PhajoDrukgom Zhipo with information obtained from history. Pha-jo was born in Eastern Tibet in the province of Kham. His birth was surrounded by the characteristic signs following the birth of a highly advanced being. At the age of seven he commenced his monastic studies and at age twelve he was sent to the renowned Nyingmapa master Thar-pa-ling-pa where he received the full set of Nying-ma teachings. Soon afterwards he heard of the teachings of the Druk-pa founder Tsang-pa-gary whom he felt drawn to meet. On his journey to meet him, Tsang-pa-gary passed away however prior to his passing he had a vision that a man from Kham would arrive and spread the teachings of the Druk-pas (which was based on the Mahamudra and the Six Yogas of Naropa) in the “Southern Lands” which is present day Bhutan.

In the early hours from Phajoding

Phajoding Goemba (Monastry) rests on 3640m above sea level which has a large monastic complex with 10 Lhakhangs (Temples), 15 Monastic residences, and many other extended mediation retreats.

A view of Thimphuh valley from the top of the mountain above Thujidrak was not so imagined.  However, through the lens, a panoramic view of Thimphu in its essence seems like a heavenly abode. There are smokes of incense offering ignited from different places in Thimphu. This offering to God pleases with much promised blessing of good health, peace, prosperity and harmony in the society.

Sim-kothra Lake

On the day two we trekked towards, Dungtho (name of a lake). Meanwhile in the expedition we had the opportunity to visit many other lakes like Jimmy Langtsho and Simkothra Lake to name a few. Others, I forgot or not heard of but seen them.

A commonly known as Druk Path Trek is visited by many of the tourists, routing through Paro. The view of a Lake from far is very divine and much loved at sight. On the close proximity of this path, there are about 8 amazing Lakes located (All the names I don’t know).   

The majestic Dungtsho

In the early afternoon, we made up to our final destination, Dungtsho. At the glamour of the site, peaceful it rests surrounded by the hard rocks, Dungtsho, a magical display of its ripples passing onto next. Birds chirping resounds the area with a melodious tune. So soothing it is to hear a bird sing a song in this calm environment. We had several shots of proof that we completed our trek to Dungtsho. 

Closed up view

Deepened into the misery of getting back to our camping site, Phajoding, we returned unwillingly. Bag packs have been reduced with weight. Foots scrolled faster down the hills but heart still embracing the chills of hills.

On reaching the hill from where we can see the panoramic view of the Thimphu valley, darkness has poured down our way. Eyes were barely visible to locate the path but we trusted our balance without being given a sip of drink. Talks were soothing on return as darkness flipped our sights.

Finally as we draw closer to our camp, feet were not so positioned well. We observed, in each other, a biased gait. Tiresome journey that was, but a memorable one.

Next day, we returned to our home, getting mingled with tourists, trekkers from third countries.

Happy is trekking, peace in the woods, calm abiding environment, and exploration of self with the nature.

Final Stupa at sight on return